Saturday, 21 June 2014

Ultimate Trousers by Sew Over It and GIVEAWAY!

Source: Sew Over It

This week it feels like the list of jobs to do to keep the renovations moving forward will never end, but it's great to see the reclaimed Victorian floorboards start to go down ... Hence i've had no time to sew anything but I am excited to tell you about the new Ultimate trousers pattern from Sew Over It!

This week Sew Over It released their latest pattern, the Ultimate trousers. The pattern for these trousers is taught as a class at the sewing Cafe in Clapham and is available to purchase as a paper pattern.

I was asked to pattern test these trousers a couple of months ago and both the pattern and instructions are simple to follow. The trousers are fitted capri style and the pattern also includes instructions for making a shorts version. The pattern has trouser pieces and facings, with an invisible zip. The only part that could be tricky is the fitting, but there will be a sew-along that deals with some common fitting issues, starting on 7th July.

I usually show step by step photos of how I make my garments but as I will be doing the sewing for the Ultimate Trousers sew-along, I didn't want to duplicate it again here. Instead i've done a pattern hack and will show you how to add a waist band to your Ultimate Trousers!

As the Ultimate trousers are fitted in style and sit low on the waist, I decided to add a waist band to mine, which makes the trousers sit higher and gives them more structure. I think this suits my figure better. I chose to make them from a light weight cotton, and for those of you who have seem my winning Indie Sewing Month entry, you will recognise the lime fabric as the same that I used for the pockets of my playsuit! I think I will make my next pair using a more medium weight cotton to give the trousers a different drape, ready for autumn.

Should you really ever wear THIS much lime!?! I'm not sure ... !

Following the pattern instructions, you will need to have sewn together your four trouser pieces and checked the fitting (very important for trousers!) but not added the zip or facings (facings not required). We will insert the zip once we have added the waistband, so only sew up to the notch on the left leg, as per the instructions. I made a size 12 and had to make slight adjustments on the side seams at the waist to fit. I also took the trousers in below the knee to make the trousers more tapered at the ankle.

First you will need to measure out your waistband. The simplest way of doing this is to carefully measure the distance all the way around the top of the trousers (assuming you are making them from cotton and not a fabric with a lot of stretch!). This figure is the length of your waistband. Cut your waistband with a width of 9 cm (this will give a final waistband height of 3 cm). 

If you want to measure your waistband using the paper pattern to get the most accurate measurement, follow these steps: a) on the paper pattern measure the top of the front pattern piece for your size. Then subtract the distance of the dart (the distance between the two notches). Double this final figure. b) Do the same for the back pattern piece. c) Add the final front and back figures together d) Then minus 1.5 cm x 6 (the centre front, centre back and right leg side seams). e) Make any adjustments necessary if you altered the pattern for fitting purposes. f) As above, cut the waistband with a width of 9 cm.

Once you have cut out your waistband, also cut the same size rectangular piece from interfacing and iron on. Fold the waist band in half, with wrong sides together and press (folding one long edge over to meet the other). Open out and then fold in both long sides of the waistband (wrong sides together) by 1.5 cm and press with an iron. Open out one of the folded sides and line up the waistband with the top of the trousers, right sides together and pin in place. Then, using the 1.5 cm crease, sew along this line all the way round the top of the trousers.

Fold the waistband over and press the seam allowance upwards.

Next insert the invisible zip. Make sure to line up the top of the zip with the top of the waistband (this is the central crease created on the waistband). Sew the invisible zip into place. Finish the seam below the zip, you might find this easier to do using a standard zipper foot.

To create a smooth finish, fold the waistband back over on itself (right sides together, at the central crease) and using a standard zipper foot, sew the waist band along the inside of the zip 3 cm from the top (that's along the zip fabric, which is sandwiched between the waistband fabric). Stop at the 1.5 cm crease.

Then turn the waistband right sides out and on the inside of the trousers it will look like this (see below) - the top 3 cm of the waistband is attached to the invisible zip but the 1.5 cm seam allowance is still unattached. 

And from the outside of the trousers the waistband will look like this (see below), a nice neat finish.

On the inside of the trousers, fold the 1.5 cm seam allowance upwards, so that it is contained within the waistband. Pin in place, making sure the waistband sits approximately 2-3 mm over the stitching line underneath. These pins will hold the waistband in the right position.

Then pin the waistband from the outside of the trousers before removing the pins on the inside.

Finally sink stitch a.k.a 'stitching in the ditch' all the way round from the right side, this will sew the waistband in place on the inside of the trousers. Alternatively you can hand slip stitch the waistband into place.

And that's your waistband finished, no hand stitching needed!

I also added three turquoise buttons to the outside edge of both trouser legs. 

Here are my finished Ultimate Trousers!

I have an Ultimate trousers pattern to give away to one of you blog readers, thanks to the lovely team at Sew Over It. For your chance to win, please comment below and tell me what fabric you would use to make your trousers or if you would be making them for a special occasion. For an additional chance to win, follow me on Bloglovin'Facebook or tweet @brodrickstudio. The winner will be selected on Monday 30th at 6 pm (UK GMT time) and be chosen at random by Good luck!

Look out for my post next week on my second class with Chinelo Bally, finalist on the Great British Sewing Bee, making a maxi dress using my freehand pattern cutting skills! You can read my post about the first class I went to here.

Disclaimer: I was not paid to test or blog about this pattern. I did it because it was fun to test out a new pattern and sew something. These views are my own : )


  1. I have no idea what fabric I'd make for an initial pair, but all going well, I'd love to make a jaquard pair at some point. I have never made trousers but am hopeful that these could be a good first attempt! Thanks for the giveaway. I love your pair - the fabric is gorgeous!

    1. Thanks Helen! I'm sure they would look great in a jacquard fabric : )

  2. Never too much lime!! They look great and I particularly like the length on you. I'd love to make a pair for my girlfriend in a fun monochrome fabric with French words all over it. She's having to accompany me to a wedding in France on the day of her birthday and having something from me to travel in would help make it a bit more special for her!

    1. Congratulations Clare! Please email with your postal address and I will send the pattern out to you. Can't wait to see the monochrome pair you make! : )

  3. I love them! I would make a denim pair for the rizzo look I am lusting after!

  4. Your lime pair look fab! I think I'd either go for a bottle green pair, or maybe red with white polka dots for a retro twist! Thanks for the chance to win!

  5. I would make them in a stretch denim! I love denim pants without fly fronts!

  6. I would love to win this pattern. I can see them being made numerous times but for my first pair I think if try a simple black twill or something like that. I already follow you on bloglovin. Thanks for the giveaway!

  7. Congratulations Clare Blain, you were randomly selected to win the Sew Over Ultimate Trousers pattern! Please email with your postal address and I will send the pattern out to you. Can't wait to see the monochrome pair you make! : )